Have What Theyre Having: Taking the When Harry Met Sally… Tour of New York

“Yeah, she shot that at one in the morning,” Ken Weine, chief communications officer of the Met added with a sigh.

Later in the film—after Harry and Sally have been best friends for a while, but still before they finally sleep together—their conversation turns risqué. Sally gets annoyed at hearing about Harrys bedroom conquests and suggests that, mathematically speaking, its entirely possible one of his trysts has faked an orgasm.

You remember the scene; its a classic. And its set in the greatest old-school cafeteria of all, Katzs Delicatessen.

Katzs, a Lower East Side staple, has been around since 1888, though its been in its current location “since the subway was built”—which translates to “about a hundred years ago.” Which also translates to “why are you asking so many questions? Its old!”

Gourmands have sung the praises of its pastrami, chopped liver, and matzo ball soup. But tour guide Matt Levy has a richer explanation for why Katzs persists: “Its the last, best Jewish-style deli in New York, and to be the best it cant just be the food. It cant just be the atmosphere. It has to be the clamor.… Even when the Carnegie Deli was around, even when the Stage Deli was around, even when the Second Avenue Deli was still on Second Avenue—they were small. They didnt have Katzs massive, almost Bavarian beer hall-type size, and all that noise and all those languages and their spectacularly arcane ordering system, which leaves one-fifth of the patrons jostling in line.”

Yes, Katzs really is that great—and the film captures its magic. (Even if the table where Harry and Sally sit is not in the wait service section, if I may be nitpicky.) The legendary eatery has leaned in to its spot in cinematic history, with a dangling sign pointing out “where Harry met Sally!” and riffing on the famous scenes punch line.

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Vanity Fair