In Kashmir, some foreign tourists appreciate the ‘peace & quiet’

SRINAGAR/SONMARG: You wouldn't expect to find foreign tourists in Kashmir right now. But if you stroll down to the houseboats moored in the scenic Dal Lake, you'd be in for a surprise.
Scotsman Steven Ballantine, 51, is perched on the steps of a houseboat, contemplatively plucking the strings of his guitar. On this correspondent's request, he enthusiastically bursts into song — "You might go to church, you sit down in a pew, those humans who ain't human, could be sitting right next to you." John Prine's lyrics sound even more haunting against the backdrop of the towering mountains, with the first chill of impending winter starting to slip into the clear, crisp air.
Ballantine, a science teacher, is one of 928 foreign tourists who arrived at Srinagar International Airport from August 5 to September 30, according to records maintained by the Foreigners Registration Office. And no, these 928 foreigners do not include journalists visiting the Valley as part of their duties.
That figure is down dramatically from the 9,589 foreign tourists whose arrival was recorded at Srinagar International Airport in the same period last year, but given the prevailing circumstances, its remarkable that even this number has come to the Valley. Even on August 5 and 6, when there were zero domestic travellers, 24 and nine foreign tourists, respectively, flew into the Valley, according to Srinagar airport records.
The slump in foreign tourists is, in fact, less pronounced than the collapse in domestic tourism. A total of 4,167 domestic passengers arrived at Srinagar airport from August 5 to September 30, against almost 1.45 lakh in the same period last year.
So why did the foreign tourists choose to come to Kashmir? Some said they believe the Valley will be safer now that it is under direct central government rule. Others welcome the solitude, the peace and quiet and the absence of tourist rush. The rock-bottom tariffs (houseboat rates are Rs 2,500-4,000 per night against Rs 10,000 in peak times) and flight tickets (Rs 1,800-2500 one way from Delhi and Mumbai) are also compelling reasons.
Barbara Strauss, a librarian in Germany, who has been staying at a houseboat rather ironically named Switzerland, says, "No Kashmiri would ever harm a tourist. It's their livelihood. This is the best time to come here as there's not much domestic rush and a significant drop in violence due to the restrictions. I have been coming here often to understand the culture and changing lifestyle patterns. This time I came to train kids in German, who can use these skills to grow tourism."
French carpenter Louis Luc Alexis, US-based architect Gray Robin and Belgium technician Hygyu Ben, who landed in Kashmir on September 23, say conflict areas must be given a chance to rebuild, explore and unearth talent. They add that craftsmen in towns and villages are readily available to engage with tourists like them and seek to promote their crafts worldwide.
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